Status: Ersatz Irishness
Perfectly timed for St. Patrick's Day, Austin Kelley has an
interesting article in Slate.com about the faux Irish pub revolution... i.e. how Irish pubs slapped together with off-the-shelf charm and quaintness have been popping up in cities all over the world. The term I've heard to describe this phenomenon (which Kelley doesn't mention) is
To Irishise, meaning to transform a bar, with the help of interior design specialists, into a fake Irish pub. Kelley traces the roots of this phenomenon back to 1991, when Dublin-based IPCo started to aggressively export the "Irish Pub Concept" around the world. Nowadays would-be Irish pub owners can choose from a variety of pre-packaged styles: the "Country Cottage," the "Gaelic," the "Traditional Pub Shop," or the "Brewery":
IPCo will assemble your chosen pub in Ireland. Then they'll bring the whole thing to your space and set it up. All you have to do is some basic prep, and voilà! Ireland arrives in Dubai. (IPCo has built several pubs and a mock village there.)
The irony here, as Kelley points out, is that Ireland is exporting a kind of quaintness that never quite existed in Ireland itself... but these very same pre-packaged Irish pubs are now being built in Ireland itself, alongside (and often crowding out) the real, authentic Irish pubs. The fake replaces the real.
But I have to admit that I'm guilty of frequenting some fake Irish pubs here in San Diego. After all, the decor may be fake, but the Guinness and boxty and corned beef still taste pretty good.
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Plastic Turkeys and Ploughman Lunches
Comments
I have an Irish Pub near my house that's been around since the 70s..Fox & Hound's Irish Pub. They just look like a bar inside.
sorry, that sounds a bit like a commercial but I thought it was interesting.
Of course, most of this is as Irish as the Innisfree of the John Wayne movie "The Quiet Man", but it did raise the level of stout poured in the US for a while. But now you can get guinness in those g-d awfull bottles with the widgets that can be drunk straight from the bottle. Definitely not "Brilliant" and possibly the antithesis of the true Irish Pub.
It made me realize what is missing from every other Irish pub in the U.S.
Centuries of spilled beer and tobacco smoke layering everything, along with the layers and layers of old papers on the walls. It may have become yuppified since I was last there, though. (Like the rest of NYC.)
BTW, my dad still insists the place went to hell in the '70s, when they started letting women in. Heh.
On the same theme as the exporting of "Irish" pubs, I heard that the only reason that they hold a St Patrick's day parade in Dublin is for the American tourists - they never used to have one until the tourists started to ask why they didn't have one. Like most things the US version of St Patrick's day is nothing like the original version...